Discovering Greccio: The Hidden Gem of Lazio and its Connection to St. Francis of Assisi
Located in the picturesque region of Lazio, Greccio is a charming village that boasts a rich history and a deep connection to St. Francis of Assisi. Although the village is no longer home to Greek speakers, as it may have been over a thousand years ago, its name still reflects the legend of Greek settlers who escaped war in their country and settled in the area. Today, Greccio is a popular destination for visitors from around the world, drawn by its stunning natural beauty, historic landmarks, and spiritual significance.
Just over an hour’s drive from Rome, Greccio is nestled in the Sabina mountains, overlooking the Rieti plain. The village has a fascinating connection to St. Francis of Assisi, who is said to have slept in self-imposed discomfort in a hermitage outside the village. This hermitage, now a monastery, was founded in 1228, the same year as the canonization of the saint. Visitors can explore the Franciscan church and monastery, which feature a modern collection of nativity scenes set in diverse situations, including a tent in sub-Saharan Africa and an Icelandic igloo. Greccio has become a world center for these models, showcasing the birthplace of Jesus in a unique and captivating way.
Greccio shrine
A Rich History and Spiritual Significance
The earliest written references to Greccio appear in the Register of Farfa Abbey, compiled by Gregory of Catino in the 1090s. The village was once enclosed by six towers and high walls, part of a defensive ring of fortifications in the area. Although the defensive walls were not enough to withstand the assault of Frederick II’s troops in 1242 and Napoleon’s invasion in the late 18th century, three towers still remain as a reminder of Greccio’s strategic importance. Today, visitors can explore the village’s historic center, with its wide central piazza and panoramic views of the Rieti plain.
St. Francis of Assisi’s connection to Greccio is deeply rooted in the village’s history. According to legend, Francis started living on Monte Lacerone in 1217, and the lord of Greccio, Giovanni Velita, invited him to preach to the inhabitants and live among them. Francis responded by getting a child to throw a burning firebrand from the mountain into the valley below, saying he would live wherever it landed. The firebrand allegedly came to rest against the rocks, which became his hermitage. This hermitage, now a monastery, was founded after Francis’ death by his follower, St. Bonaventura.
The village of Greccio.
The Birthplace of the Living Nativity Scene
Greccio is also famous for being the birthplace of the living nativity scene, which was first reenacted by St. Francis in 1223. The saint’s biographer, Thomas of Celano, reports that Francis requested his friend Velita to prepare everything for the celebration, saying, “If now it seems good to thee that we should celebrate this feast together, go before me to Greccio and prepare everything as I tell thee. I desire to represent the birth of that Child in Bethlehem in such a way that with our bodily eyes we may see what He suffered for lack of the necessities of a newborn Babe and how He lay in a manger between the ox and ass.” The first living nativity scene was reenacted on Christmas Eve, with crowds gathering to witness the event, carrying candles and burning torches. Today, the scene is reenacted every year, with a grandstand ensuring a good view of the proceedings under the floodlit cliffs.
For those interested in following St. Francis’ pilgrim route to Rome, the Cammino di Francesco is well-signposted, offering a unique opportunity to explore the region’s natural beauty and spiritual significance. The Proloco website provides further information on the route and the village of Greccio.
By Philip Biss
Useful Information
Greccio is a pretty, little-known village with a wide central piazza and occupies a panoramic position overlooking the Rieti plain. The former marshland was drained in early Roman times, and the Velino river cascades into the Terni valley below, forming the highest man-made waterfall in Europe. Visitors can enjoy excellent food at one of the several good restaurants in Greccio, including the Nido del Corvo, which offers spectacular views.
Getting There
By road from Rome: Take the Via Salaria to Rieti and then turn left and proceed about six km towards Terni, turning off left to Contigliano and then following the signs for Greccio.
By bus from Rome: Cotral bus from Tiburtina to Rieti. Then Cotral bus from Rieti to Greccio.
By train: from Terni in the direction of Rieti, alighting at Greccio station and taking a local bus.